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We see fire damage above the ground far too
often, though unseen, the damage below the ground is equally
devastating. Often the soil life is destroyed or seriously damaged
with major losses of fungal and bacterial life. The loss of soil fungi
is very serious as it alters the soil fungal to bacterial ratio towards
the bacterial end which promotes weed and annual plant growth.
Extended droughts can also do the same thing and bacteria can create a
waxy, water resistant layer in the soil as a last ditch effort to hold
onto the last of the moisture. This results in a soil which is
difficult to wet and rehydrate.
To repair the damage and quickly return the soil to production or long
term stable systems we need to accelerate succession and push through
the weed stage by increasing the soil fungal mass and providing food for
it to grow. Of course this does require some water to make the soil
life happen, but if a water resistant, waxy hydrophobic layer exists,
how do we break through?
The secret is worms and calcium, that's how nature does it and we can
promote worm and fungal life with similar foods and liquid vermicast.
The calcium breaks through the waxy layers and the vermicast contains
proteins and microbes which activate the soil life required to remove
the wax and the bacteria that produce it. Adding long term soil life
food like fish hydrolysate, kelp, molasses and humic acid will ensure
the rebuilding process continues.
Nicole Masters from Integrity Soils
has produced the video above which goes into the process in much more
detail. It proposes a very good recipe for the recovery brew but it's
costs may restrict it's use. Where costs or area to be covered is
prohibitively expensive, then the following brew should be considered as
a minimum requirement.
7L Fish Hydrolysate
1kg Molasses or sugar
5L Liquid Vermicast
10L liquid lime
1L humic acid
Per hectare with sufficient water to broadcast.
Groundgrocer has a new liquid vermicast from Island Biologicals called BioCast+ which we have found to be very effective. It is a two part
system with an activator to kick start the biology.
This recovery system is also wonderful for stimulating soil biology on
non drought or fire effected areas and can be the basis for compost
teas, extracts and EM-1 fortified solutions.
This message was originally going to promote today as world soil day http://www.fao.org/world-soil-day/en/.
I hope this information will be of more value for practical ways to
build and repair soil. My thoughts are with all those effected by the
current fires.
Mark Berndt
GroundGrocer.com
Spoiler alert - No, the soil does not sleep in winter. However the microbes all slow down and scientists have measured a metabolic slowdown of 50% in the northern forests and arctic tundra. This makes sense, if the microbes stopped working in winter, natural plant growth would be slow to start in spring. In those northern forests with only a few growing months a slow start could be devastating to plant and therefore animal life.
Winter is a time of regeneration. The active soil life can store nitrogen, sulphur and other soluble minerals ready for massive growth requirements in spring. The decomposers can process larger organic molecules such as cellulose and lignin to store carbon. Since the products are stored as insoluble but available to plants and other soil life, they are largely immune to leaching.
Late Autumn provides the materials for recycling such as fallen leaves and other plant materials. In cold areas these materials are covered with snow to stop them being washed away by wind or water. To mimic nature we can crimp roll grasses or turn plant residues into intentional compost with hot Berkeley style piles, Johnson-Su active/static piles or worm processing.
Now is the time to ensure the soil has enough food and sufficient microbes to last over winter. Keep the soil covered wherever possible and minimise disturbance. Your animals can process materials into manure and spread this over grazing areas, being aware that overgrazing can slow plant growth. Add soil foods such as composts, humates, fish hydrolysate and kelp. A great way to do this is to apply compost teas and commercial microbes.
Bio-vital Brewers and Air Blowers
Humates, Kelp, Fish Hydrolysate, Molasses
EM-1, Mycorrhizal Fungi, Trichoderma + B.sub, Nematode control
New 100g packs available for Mycorrhizal Fungi and Trichoderma
Contact GroundGrocer.com 1 300 804 486 or email info@groundgrocer.com
]]>They are spreading a great message about permacultre, growing food & all things sustainable using entertainment & music.
I really enjoyed the gypsy, eclectic, electro-swing sounds & the vibrant message & so I decided to buy the CD.
Instead of a CD & was given a packet of rocket seeds which contained a note with the link to download the CD.... truly creative & sustainable way of spreading the seeds....
I really dig those guys (excuse the pun but I had to say it...) & I hear over the grape vine that they are doing really well in Europa & the UK too.
A Simple Soil Science Test
You can help your soil support your plants, flowers, trees, shrubs, and lawns by learning what it is made of. Testing your soil involves a simple do-at-home science experience that you can complete in an afternoon.
Like many gardeners, I tend to focus my efforts at ground level. I weed, water, and mulch on a regular basis. I replace plants that don’t make it through various weather stressors and give a little TLC to those that did. But it turns out the interactions under the soil may be at the root of much that goes right—and wrong—for my lawn, trees, flowers, plants and vegetables.
Of course we all think about soil, right? That’s why we mulch and fertilize. But soil isn’t a constant: it gets depleted and if you don’t like what it’s doing to your plants, it can be changed for the better. The easiest way to get to know your soil better is to figure out what it is made of and what it is lacking. For that, there’s the mason jar test.
Dirt may look pretty straightforward—dirt is dirt, right? But the soil in your garden beds and under your lawn is actually made up of several components: clay, sand, and silt, as well as water, air, and organic matter. The proportions of clay, sand, and silt are what determine how well your soil supports the things that are growing, how much moisture it holds, and how well it drains.
Of those three, clay and sand are the most familiar. When viewed up close and under a microscope, clay is the smallest mineral and it holds tight to water. The problem? Too much clay in your soil and you end up with a sticky, mucky mess that won’t drain and stays cold much longer in the spring than sand or silt.
Silt is the middle-size element in soil, while sand particles are the largest. Just like sand at the beach, sand in your soil drains quickly and has trouble holding onto essential nutrients that plants rely on. Translation? You have to water and fertilize lots more than you probably want to.
When silt, sand, and clay combine in just-right proportions, the result is loam. That’s the holy grail of garden soil, the black gold that will help your plants stay nourished, drain well, and retain water when needed.
If the percentages of sand, silt, and clay in your soil are less than ideal, you’ll also be able to feel differences in the soil. Sandy soil is gritty, and if wet it doesn’t hold its shape. Clay soil is sticky—think playing with clay when you were a kid—and holds together too firmly. Loam will feel rich and hold its shape when wet, but breaks apart into meaty pieces.
Most state extension services will perform a detailed soil analysis for a small fee, but you have to wait for the results. Many people take a soil sample in spring, but you can home-test the soil at any time during the year. There are soil test kits for sale at most home improvement stores, but a no-cost, at-home soil test is simple, can be done in any spot in your garden, and takes just a glass jar. Once you complete the test, you can use the results to figure out what to add to your soil to improve it.
Step-by-Step Soil Test
After completing the soil test, you need to determine the percentages in your mason jar. Measure each of the three layers and calculate approximately how much space each takes up in the jar. That’s the approximate makeup of your soil, and indicates what soil type you have
Once you’ve tested your soil and found it lacking, you have several options for your plants. If you haven’t dug a garden bed or hole for a new tree, you can try to find a better spot in your landscape, one that has soil that’s closer to loam that your original site.
But for existing garden beds or just-perfect landscape spots, there are ways to try to improve the soil. The simplest way to improve any soil that’s less than ideal is to add organic matter, such as compost, regularly. If you purchase compost, add a 2-inch-thick layer in spring. Mulch made of organic matter—wood chips, for example—helps, too, as do yard trimmings—pretty much anything that decomposes and makes your less-than-ideal soil more amenable to growing plants successfully.
Source: Fix.com
]]>Find out how to properly set up your compost bin and learn about the benefits of composting; from enriching soil, to reducing emissions and lessening the use of chemical fertilizers!
Source: Fix.com]]>
Heirloom seeds are rare, precious and treasured seeds that grow into plants that can bear seed just like their parents. They can reproduce themselves as Nature intended, parent to child, child to parent, and so forth. Heirlooms can be either open-pollinated, which is pollination carried on by bees, butterflies, wind and other natural methods, or, hand pollinated by loving and dedicated farmers.
to findout more, see videos & a list of Heirloom seed suppliers see our Heirloom web page
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It was a long journey & we hope you like what you see. we will appreciate your feedback & we will continue to add products & useful content.
Again, many thanks to the great team at Birddog marketing who helped us through-out this project & responded fast to all our questions as well as the any small & large changes which were required.
We begin with understanding the issues at hand:
What we teach is the practical side of biological farming so that it can be applied and understood on the farm.
We start with specifically designed inoculum compost as a rich source of beneficial soil microbes. This compost is made from a wide range of possible materials; we classify them broadly as "brown" (straw and sawdust - carbon/carbohydrate source), "green" (hay or green waste - sugar/carbohydrate source), and "high N" (proteins) such as manures.
Compost can be made in piles from 1 cu m that start in the backyard and are turned with a garden fork, to thousands of cubic metres turned with sophisticated mechanical turners. Larger systems may also include “nutrient recovery” programs involving the analysis of local waste streams as system inputs.
As this system is based in the production and application of beneficial soil microbes, it must be monitored to ensure best results. 'Best results' means that we are getting the best diversity of beneficial microbes possible for conditions, inputs, management and applications while remembering that we are “growing” compost for its microbes, not just decomposed organic matter for its organic content, carbon and nutrients.
To make "good compost" we need simple methodologies to ensure that the farmer/practitioner can easily and effectively implement this ultimately complex system and use it successfully to increase production. This system of sustainable agriculture management using soil biology allows us to build topsoil, reduce the need for water and nutrient input, provide productive plants with what they need when they need it through healthy nutrient cycling and ultimately return to profitable and enjoyable farming.
Once we have made ‘living’ compost, which is essentially an inoculum of beneficial soil microbes specifically chosen and designed to support our productive system, we then need to explore the simplest methods of application for best results. We must also keep in mind that our primary intention is to re-vitalize degraded soils, knowing that other positive outcomes follow from this.
GroundGrocer has been retained by Fiji-based start-up company Recycle & Composting Fiji to assist in the production of their Bioactive Compost range.
Based on Viti Levu, the largest of the Fiji Islands, in the South Pacific, Recycle & Composting Fiji are using ingredients sourced from local chicken and sugar cane industries.
They are using compost windrow technology and a range of monitoring equipment supplied by GroundGrocer.
Ongoing consultancy support from GroundGrocer includes technical advice, periodic monitoring and business development advice and planning.
Contact us to find out how we can assit with the development and growth of your composting business!